Friday 5 July 2013

A POSTCARD FROM PORTUGAL

Our June Tongham Taster’s evening took us to a country that is ignored and forgotten by so many wine drinkers - Portugal.   Whilst still remembered for its fortified wines, its other wines, with the exception of, dare I say it, Mateus Rosé are little known.   Ian and Kathryn were our excellent hosts and they took the easy but ultimately winning option of getting all of their six wines via The Wine Society’s “The Portugal Exploration Case”.   Our only disappointment was not trying one of Cliff Richard’s wines – a rousing chorus of “we’re all going on a summer holiday” or “the young ones” would have really made the evening!

As none of us know very much about Portuguese wines we didn’t actually taste the wines blind, it would have made no difference to our marks or comments.  Instead Kathryn provided us with tasting notes on all six wines plus a wine from the aforementioned Senhor Richard.  We just had to guess which of the tasting notes went with each wine; a much more difficult task than it might sound when they are filled with typical wine critic verbosity such as “a hint of Burgundian style struck match” or “constrained and buttressed by the tight apple”.

Unusually we were marking the wines out of ten using a different system than usual and which developed slightly over the evening and which was not used consistently around the tasting table.  Scores below are in the order John E, Kathryn, Ian, Jill, John S, Andy, Clive, Jane, Sarah and Chris.  The wines are presented in our descending order of preference with the food we served with them:

1. Campolargo, Alvelhao, Beiras, 2011, Potuguese red wine, The Wine Society, £10.95.
This was our postcard from Portugal and indeed a postcard, most unusually, forms the label.  This wine is from the Bairrada region of Northern Portugal. But is different from the robust reds that traditionally come from this area.  It was an easy winner with our judging panel despite initial comments such as wafts of toilet cleaner or menthol –not something I got at all, I have to say.  Perhaps they meant fresh summer flowers and hay meadows; sounds much better doesn’t it.  We found it light to medium bodied , slightly sweeter than the other reds but very nice taste and some complexity.  Four of our panel voted it the top wine of the evening and another five had it in their top three.   Scores were 9,7,8,9,7,6.5,8,7,10 and 7.25.   A pleasant summer red that could be good on its own.

2. Terrenus, Branco, Alentejo 2010, Portuguese white wine, The Wine Society, £10.95.
This blended wine from inland Southern Portugal received top votes from two of our judges and another five had it in their top three wines.  It had a citrus, oak and minerality and tasted relatively similar to some oaked Sancerres I had tasted recently.  We found it perhaps lacked a little aftertaste although the tasting notes from The Wine Society suggested the opposite.   Score were 7.5,8,9,7.5,6,7,9,7,9 and 7.5   This is a wine for those who don’t mind a little oak in their wines as long as it is balanced by fruit and minerality.


3. Valle Pradhinhos, Branco, Transmontano 2011, Portuguese white wine, The Wine Society,
£10.95
Another white came next and many thought it was better than the one above but quite a few didn’t like this wine at all and hence the placings.  This wine had a big citrus nose, perhaps reminiscent of grapefruit and again good minerality with perhaps some oak and saltiness. Another wine that reminded me of Sancerre although it is a blended wine and comes from the Upper Douro area of Northern Portugal.  We tried this wine with a lovely prawn pasta dish and the dish improved the wine.   Scores were 6.5+,8.5,7,9.5,7,5,8,9,5 and 8.  A lovely wine to have with your barbequed fish this summer.

4. Alfrocheiro, Grande Escolha, Tejo 2008, Portuguese red wine, The Wine Society, £14.95
This wine had that big New World red smell and looked lovely in the glass.  We found brambles and cherries in its fruit flavours and a good level of acidity.  One person thought this their favourite wine of the evening and another six had it in their top three.  Scores were 8-,7,8,8,7,6,8,9,7.5, and 6.    The acidity would make this a good match to slow roasted pork belly.

5. Verdelho, Alentejo 2011, Portuguese white wine, The Wine Society, £8.95
This was the first wine we tasted and it made a great start to the evening.  I thought it tasted like some Italian whites only better.  It was perhaps a bit flat tasting and thus came towards the bottom of our three good whites.  We had this with some Olive Oil Tortas from Waitrose and green grapes and they were an excellent wine accompaniment.   Scores were 6.5-,7,6,7,6.5,6,8,5,6 and 6.5.   If you like the white wines of Italy or Spain, give this one from Portugal a try.

6. Porta Velha, Tras-os-Montes 2010, Portuguese red wine, The Wine Society, £7.50
Although this wine came in last place and was the only wine that nobody put in their top three, it was probably the best sixth place wine we have tasted over the last three years of Tongham Tasters.  Perhaps too soft it was a little flat and uncomplicated.   However, it did have a nice raspberry or strawberry aroma and some acidity to match with food.  We found it went well with figs.  Scores were 7-,7,6,6,5,5,8,5,7 and 4.5.   A Portuguese alternative to a joven Rioja as it is made largely with Tempranilla to drink young.
Our food menu for the evening

Overall this proved to be a very consistent bunch of wines and absolutely not a dud amongst them.  However, perhaps no really amazing star either.  The food was gorgeous and novel.  A great evening – congratulations and thanks to our hosts Ian and Kathryn.   Obviously, we all ought to be adding Portuguese wines to our shopping list – join the Wine Society or visit a good quality wine specialist or pop along to your local Waitrose.  An observation from some of us was that the labels didn't help sell this wine to foreigners like us who are not experts in Portuguese wine.
Tortas and green grapes - a great combination with a Portuguese white

Well done to Clive who did spectacularly well compared with the rest of us in matching the wines with the Wine Society descriptions – he obviously has a great palate.
Our Portuguese prawn pasta dish

Thanks to Kathryn for the delicious food that accompanied the wines.
Merriment accompanied the first white

Next month we end our exile in Farnborough and return to our roots in Tongham.  Steve will be presenting us six wines from the Languedoc region of France on Friday July 5th at 8pm in The Street, Tongham.  Don’t forget that we welcome old and new comers equally so if you would like to join us, click on Wine Circle to find out more details.
An aperitif before the main tasting 

August will be one of the special evenings where we blow the budget and use up some of our kitty.  It will be an evening of older and more expensive wines than normal.  So our regular tasting team need to put Friday August 9th in their diaries.  The theme will be Reserva and Gran Reserva Riojas.  Included will be a mini vertical of three wines from the eighties and nineties.  This will be a mainly red evening and will be accompanied by traditional Rioja accompaniments like roast lamb, Manchego cheese, Serrano ham, chestnut soup and mushrooms.   If it’s a warm summers day, which is unlikely in England, we will try to lighten up some of those ingredients.  This evening will be hosted by John and Jane in Grange Road, Tongham.
Many thanks to our hosts


At our next evening we will need to plan September through December, so team come up with some ideas.  In October it will be our third birthday as a wine tasting group.
We ended with Portuguese custard tarts - delicious! 

As usual thanks to Clive for most of the photos.

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