Jurancon and Pacherenc du Vic-Bilh - TonghamTaster’s French Wine Tasting Course – week 17

The 12 month on-line course to help you learn about French wines - Top tips on how to get value when buying them - Reasonably priced up-to-date recommendations of what to buy and try in the UK - Bringing you the best of Tongham Village Hall wine tastings.

INTRODUCTION
This week we continue our discovery of the lovely wines of South West France and move on to the under-rated white wines of Jurancon and Pacherenc du Vic-Bilh. Much like the wines of last week they are mainly made with local varietals that are not known internationally.

LOCALITY

In the foothills of the Pyrenees around the town of Pau, which is perhaps better known for its annual around the houses motor race, come the lovely wines of Jurancon. This is countryside that is close to Spanish border in the old Kingdom of Navarre. Local legend has it that Pau born Henry IV was baptised with some Jurancon on his lips.
Pacherenc du Vic Bilh comes from slightly further into France in the red wine growing area of Madiran on the old pilgrims’ route to Santiago de Compestela. The strange name comes from the old Gascony name for the area.

VARIETALS
As I mentioned in my introduction, local grape varietals dominate these two wines. Particularly, you will find Gros Manseng, Petit Manseng and Petit Courbu in these blends. The Pacherenc du Vic Bilh may also contain the local Ruffiac and a little Sauvignon Blanc.

The two Manseng varietals with are local to the basque area of the Pyrennes help produce quite tangy wines. The Petit Courbu is an old Gacony grape varietal that can add body to the wine.

THE WINES
The best known wine of Jurancon is the sweet white wine that is often offered with the Foie Gras in many restaurants throughout France but particularly in the South West. There is also the Jurancon Sec, a dry white wine from the same area. The French writer Collette has helped promote these wines though her enthusiasm for them but they are still not particularly well known outside of France. The best sweet wines are dominated by the Petit Manseng as these dry on the vine to produce the classic concentrated fruity taste. The dryer wines tend to be dominated by the Gros Manseng and are also quite fruity.

The dry and sweet white wines of Pacherenc du Vic-Bilh will normally be fruity but often with some oak which you will either appreciate or not according to your palate. To me, the best such as Chateau Berthoumieu are quite wonderful (available at Les Caves de Pyrenes). The better sweet wines will be made with grapes that have dried on the vine.

THE TASTE
The wines of Jurancon will often have a tangy fruitiness but balanced by a good acidity. You may also find floral and spicy aromas.
The wines of Pacherenc du Vic Bilh will have similar characteristics but often have an oaky taste as well.

TOP TIPS
• Look out for the sweet white wines of Jurancon as they represent great value for the quality and go with a variety of foods.

• The better oaky dry whites of Pacherenc du Vic-Bilh are also worthy of consideration if this is a taste you like.

HOMEWORK
For your homework this week you need to buy and try a Jurancon or Pacherenc du Vic-Bilh white wine. You will find buying these wines quite difficult but not impossible in the UK It may include the following wine but I also highly recommend a trip to Les Caves de Pyrenes near Guildford.

Waitrose – Château Jolys Cuvée Jean 2008 Jurançon (sweet white) – about £13.
Waitrose - Château Jolys Jurançon Sec 2008 (Dry White) – about £10.

FOOD PAIRINGS
With the sweet wines why not try some Foie Gras, either cold or quickly half cooked. Like most French sweet wines they will also pair well with Roquefort blue cheese. If a bit more adventurous try with spicy food such as a curry.

With the oaky Paherencs why not try some smoked salmon pasta or strong soft cheese. The other dry whites will pair well with many foods. You may wish to try them with the local Bayonne ham.

COMING SOON
Next week we move on to the tannic red wines of Madiran and Irouleguy. If you missed the early weeks of this course, it is not too late to catch up. Just click on the French Wine Course link at the top of this page.   Also don't forget to try some of these beautiful wines - it is the only way to learn...... and learning about wnes by tasting them is fun!

The Dark Wines of Cahors - TonghamTaster’s French Wine Tasting Course – week 15

INTRODUCTION
This week we continue our discovery of the lovely wines of South West France and move on to Cahors. The wine making region of Cahors has been famous for many centuries and was long known for its dark inky wines that were distinct from the lighter wines of Bordeaux. Cahors makes a lot of wine and it is the second biggest AOC after Bergerac in South-West France.

Dark, tannic but lovely!

LOCALITY
The wines of Cahors come from around the town of Cahors which is the capital of the Lot department and is situated on a bend in the Lot River. It is a little South East of Bergerac and Bordeaux.

VARIETALS
The defining varietal of Cahors wine is the Malbec grape which locally is also called Auxerrois or Cot. The Malbec grape must make up at least 70% of the blend with the rest being Merlot and/or Tannat. Almost all Cahors wines are blends and thus few are 100% Malbec unlike Argentina who have made the grape variety famous having imported it from the Cahors area.

THE WINES
All AOC wines from Cahors are red and dark red at that. The inky blackness of old Cahors wines was sometimes made darker by heating some of the Malbec grape juice to concentrate its colour. Interest in Cahors has been growing since Argentina have made Malbec fashionable.

THE TASTE
The wines tend to fall into three main styles – the older style that is very tannic and needs ageing before it is drinkable, the more approachable modern fruity style, and the style that tries to mimic the Argentinian Malbecs.

TOP TIPS
• Look out for Cahors as it is the French expression of the Malbec grape and is reasonably priced for the quality. Do try the different styles.

HOMEWORK
For your homework this week you need to buy and try a Cahors wine. It may include one of the following wines from very good producers but I also recommend a trip to Les Caves des Pyrenes:

Waitrose – Le Malbec du Clos Triguedina 2008 Cahors – about £8. (Traditional)
Majestic – Chateau de Gaudou Cuvee Renaissance 2007/8 Cahors – about £12 (Traditional)
Majestic – Chateau de Gaudou Cuvee Tradition 2008 Cahors – about £8 (more approachable)

FOOD PAIRINGS
The lighter fruity wines will go with pork and chicken dishes.
The more tannic wines will go with lamb or traditional local dishes such as Cassoulet.

COMING SOON
Next week we move on to the wines of Gaillac and Marcillac. If you missed the early weeks of this course, it is not too late to catch up. Just click on the French Wine Course link at the top of this page.