Saturday 14 July 2012

Menetou Mentions


Jacques Coeur looking out of his Palace
Following my recent posts on Sancerre alternatives, Reuilly and Quincy, it seems unfair not to give Menetou-Salon a mention.  This is especially true as I tend to drink this wine rather often during my monthly trips to Bourges.   Although, I have only been drinking Menetou-Salon for a little over ten years, this region has been famous for wine for many centuries; Jacques Coeur, who was the somewhat adventurous and allegedly corrupt treasurer of France in the fifteenth century, loved the wines of Menetou-Salon and bought up most of the area.   His palace in Bourges, by the way,  is well worth a visit if in the area.

From a wine point of view Menetou-Salon is really a southwest extension of Sancerre and their best wines definitely hit the heights of its more famous neighbour.  As with most French appellations there is quite a lot of below par wine produced as well; hopefully you’ll find this post helpful in picking up the jewels of the region.

Beautiful window in the Jacques Coeur Palace
The wines of Menetou-Salon, just like Sancerre, are made with either Sauvignon Blanc or Pinot Noir grapes, and they produce white, red and rosé wines from those varietals.   The whites are probably the best but I also love the rosé wines produced by Domaine Philippe Gilbert and Domaine du Prieuré, and the reds produced by Isabelle and PierreClément (try the tradition) and Henri Pellé.   The reds tend to be light but can have a beautiful cherry flavour.   Many of the top producers oak their top cuvees, whether red or white.
Menetou-Salon Vineyard

The best area of the Menetou-Salon is regarded as Morogues, which is where Henri Pellé is based, and thus no surprise that he is on everyone’s list of top wines from this region.  Of the vineyards in Morogues perhaps Clos de Ratiers is the best.  Thus if you want to taste one of the best Menetou-Salon whites, go for a Henri Pellé Morogues Ratier Blanc.  Morogues and the other better sites gain from limestone soils.
Me tasting at Henri Pelle
Jane prefers the two-handed approach!

If you are interested in biodynamic wines, then the wines of DomainePhilippe Gilbert are for you.  Many of his wines take a few years to mature, particularly the oaked ones that are named Les Renardiéres.  However, his rosé is good to drink early on and rarely fails to please me.  His wines that need to mature can also be lovely.  I have had a good welcome at Philippe Gilbert over the years so do visit them and buy some wine.
Domaine Philippe Gilbert

So my favourite names to look out for are:

Domaine Henri Pellé (available in the UK from virginwines.co.uk, lescaves.co.uk and also seen in Waitrose in past years)
Domaine Philippe Gilbert (available in the UK from artisanwines.co.uk)
Domaine de Châtenoy, Isabelle et Pierre Clément (available fromNicolas.co.uk)
Impressive door at Henri Pelle

But they are many other good producers as well (use your useful little Hugh Johnson, Oz Clarke or Robert Joseph handbooks to identify these). Shame we rarely get a full range of these wines in the UK, as they are often better value than Sancerre.  Still it’s a good excuse for a long weekend in the Loire Valley!
Inside Domaine Philippe Gilbert's winery
Part of Henri Pelle's range of wines in 2012

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