Saturday, 10 November 2012

QUEEN OLGA OF CHINON


I was sitting in a small restaurant in the Loire Valley last year and ordered a bottle of wine off the menu that was just labelled  "Chinon".   It turned out to be a Baudry-Dutour Chateau La Grille 2005 and it was stunning.  This inspired me to hold a Chinon evening for Tongham Tasters and when I found a wine retailer selling different years of one of Olga Raffault’s cuveés it turned into a vertical tasting – a tasting of the same wine from different years.

Chinon is a town in the Touraine region within the Loire Valley.   It stands on the River Vienne and most of the vineyards occupy a triangle bordered on two sides by the Vienne and the Loire.  Some of the best wine comes from around Cravant which is east of the town of Chinon where there is the limestone tufa that produces the heavier age-worthy wines.   Near the rivers are the sandy gravelly soils that produce the lighter fruitier wines for drinking young.  Most of Chinon is dedicated to Cabernet Franc, which they turn into red wines or occasionally rosé.  Many of the good growers are organic or biodynamic. A little Chenin Blanc is grown to produce white wine.   Similar red wines to those of Chinon are grown to the north of the Loire river in Bourgeuil and Saint Nicolas de Bourgeuil.   Although most Chinon is produced to be drunk young many are capable of lasting for many years.  However, some hold the view that Chinons do not improve with age.  As we were trying some from 1990 and 1998, would we agree?
Some vineyards in Chinon as seen from the castle

The red wines of Chinon typically taste of raspberry, pencil lead and tobacco leaf.  Sometimes you also get a barnyard taste that is often referred to as “bretty”.  This is caused by the presence of a yeast called brettanomyces.  Some like the complexity caused by the presence of this yeast whilst others regard it as spoiling the fruitiness of the wine and view it as contamination.  What would our tasting team think?
Chatting before the serious tasting begins

Tonight we did not taste the wines blind and tasted in order of age with the youngest wines coming first.  In all we tasted eight vintages with three of these being of the same cuveé and thus our first true vertical tasting.  The wines below are presented in descending order of preference.   Scores are out of twenty and are presented in the order of John E, Steve S, Sheila, Clive, Sarah, Ian, Kathryn and John S.  Jane and Yvonne also attended but did not complete their sheets for all the wines.
Gouda, Brie and Goats cheese with figs - an excellent cheese board

Lovely Ham & leek tarts
We tasted the wines with food varying from duck spring rolls, ham and cheese tarts and bread and cheese.  The ham and leek tarts were particularly delicious and were made by Chris who couldn’t attend at the last moment – we missed you Chris and Andy but thanks for the cooking Chris.  Cheese was provided by Clive from Secrett’s farm shop and was delicious and the bread was from the excellent Tongham bakers shop.  At the end we had some of Ian’s lovely homemade raspberry icecream (from homegrown raspberrys) served with Jane’s homemade almond butter and apple cookies.  Jane also made some “raw food” red pepper and flax seed crackers that I really liked (try her excellent whyisthereair website for her recipes using a Thermomix).

Clive taking the photos
In order to taste all of the wines in top condition, I decanted each wine into a clean jug, thus eliminating any deposits or sediment, and then poured it vigorously into another clean jug to aerate.   Finally, I cleaned each bottle and poured back each wine into its respective original bottle.  This system seemed to work well as all wines were quite open and we avoided any sediment in the glass from the older wines.  It also ensured that the oak and fruit were well integrated and eliminated some of the barnyard smells but also perhaps took away some raspberry aromas that I admired as I was aerating them. The 2011 was served chilled and the 2005 slightly chilled. 

1. Olga Raffault Chinon Les Picasses 1998, French Red, 12.5%, RandB Wines £12.00
With half our tasting team voting this their favourite wine of the evening, this was a fairly clear winner.  There was, however, one dissenter who voted it last.  The reason it came first was that it was complex, had lots of oak and good acidity and great length.  It was quite light in colour and had a taste of boiled sweets to some of us.  Scores were 16.5, 17.25, 12, 19, 12, 17, 13 and 17.  I look forward to enjoying the other two bottles I have of this vintage!  Great value wine at £12.00.  Olga Raffault's wines truly are the Queens of Chinon.

2. Olga Raffault Chinon Les Picasses 1990, French Red, 12.5%, RandB Wines £25.00
Our oldest wine of the evening this tasted very similar to the 1998 but was just shaded into second place as it got just two votes as the top wine.  Almost everyone had it in their top three. This perhaps had slightly more of a barnyard hint to it than the 1998 and there was the usual graphite and oak.  It still looked relatively young and belied its 22 years.  Scores were 16, 16, 10, 18, 10, 17.5, 14 and 15.

3. Pierre-Jacques Druet Chinon Clos de Danzay 2001, French Red, 12.5%, Majestic £9.99 if you buy two or £11.99 if you buy one.
With two top votes and most putting it in their top half of the wines tasted this wine came closest to challenging Olga Raffault.  Pierre-Jacques Druet is actually a top wine maker in neighbouring Bourgeuil but has this parcel of land on the right bank of the Vienne river in Beaumont en Veron.  This wine had a strawberry fruitiness mixed in with some oak and very little if any barnyard.  It was still red with a faint brown tinge.  Scores were 15, 13.75, 11, 17, 14, 14.5, 14 and 14.5.  Well worth a trip to Majestic to get some more of this.

4. Olga Raffault Chinon Les Picasses 2002, French Red ,12.5%, RandB Wines £14.00
Half our team voted this as their third favourite wine of the night.  This was a good wine with a nice taste of vanilla from the oak and some barnyard as we found in all of the Olga Raffault wines.  Scores were 14.75, 14.5, 9, 17, 13, 10.5, 12 and 14.

5. Olga Raffault Chinon Les Barnabes 2005, French Red, 13.5%, RandB Wines £7.00
This wine was almost total barnyard in terms of nose and taste but most of our team still enjoyed it.  It is the antithesis of a fruit driven wine and this is a wine you will either love of hate.  Five had it in their bottom four and the other five had it in their top four wines.  Scores were 12.5, 14.75, 9.5, 17, 12, 15, 12 and 13.5.   This is a wine from Savigny en Veron on sand and gravel soils. Not a wine for the New World lovers and suits chilling a little but good value if you like this type of wine.

6. Couly-Dutheil Chinon La Closerie 2008, French Red, 13%, Laithwaites £11.49
Nobody had this wine in their top half of the rankings but nobody put in last place either.  Comments on the nose included compost and liquorice with some vanilla.   It was still young enough to have a purple red colour.  Scores were 13, 13.5, 8.5, 13, 10, 12.5, 12 and 12.5.

7. Wilfrid Rousse Chinon Cuvee Terroir 2009, French Red, 12.5%, Stone Vine and Sun £11.95
This purple coloured wine comes from a good year and was richer than the other wine from Wilfrid Rousse but still quite thin. It was a nice fruity wine.  One person had it in their top three but most had it sixth or seventh.  Scores were 12.5, 13, 9, 12, 12, 13.5, 10 and13.  This wine has been a gold medal winner but didn’t over impress on our night against top competition.

8. Wilfrid Rousse Chinon Les Galuches 2011, French Red, 12.5%, Stone Vine and Sun £10.95
Six of our team had this in last place but it was actually a light and nice wine with good hints of raspberry.  This is certainly a good wine to pair with goat’s cheese.  Scores were 11.5, 11, 8, 15, 9, 13.5, 9 and 9.   Disappointing to find this excellent producer at the bottom, I’ll have to find an excuse to serve his top cuvee at another TT evening.

If you are interested in the wines of the Loire Valley, two excellent websites are linked to below:


Another appellation uncorked by Tongham Tasters
This was an interesting evening’s tasting.  You can see from the results that there is a surprising correlation between the age of the wine and its placing; we seemed to enjoy the older wines and perhaps this means that Chinon does improve with age, although there were no noticeable tannins to soften over the years.  Another theory was that we served the older wines with cheese and this was a better match.   You don’t tend to find good Chinon on the supermarket shelves but there are many good on line and specialist retailers waiting to sell you a good bottle.  On the basis of this tasting we should be drinking them more. They are great food wines and relatively low in alcohol compared to those from further south.

Thanks to the catering team and Kathryn for organising them so well.  Thanks to everyone who came and made for another excellent Friday night both in terms of appreciating the wine and the sparkling conversation and bad jokes!

Tongham Taster passing a bottle of Olga Raffault to the other tasters
Our next outing is to Farnborough in December for our Christmas party that Ian and Kathryn are organising.  They promise to serve us seven or eight drinks that represent Christmas from around the World.  Should be fun and we will be taking a taxi from Tongham if you want to join us.  It is at 8pm on Friday December 14th.  Give John a call on 07717 876743 or email tonghamtaster@gmail.com if you want to join us.  Our events are a good way of tasting wines you might never otherwise taste (such as a 1983 Chablis or a 1990 Chinon for instance) and getting an understanding that you can’t get by reading or tasting alone (this evening we all got to understand what “Bretty” meant for instance and whether we liked it or not).  We welcome newcomers so give us a call and join our tasting team.

We return to Tongham in the New Year for Clive's Sauvignon Blancs from around the World - a must for white wine lovers on Friday January 11th at 8pm in Poyle Road.

Further details of our fun wine tasting events can be found by clicking on wine circle at the top of this post.

Tonight's wines all came from specialist wine retailers rather than supermarkets - its a good way to buy wines, you get god advice, an interesting choice and often great value!   I really like Stone Vine and Sun in Twyford - they have an interesting selection of wines especially from the Rhone Valley and Languedoc.  A really different light and fruity Rhone wine is their 2011 Cuvee des Galets at just under £8.  They have some interesting Bordeaux, Faugeres and Minervois as well.  RandB wines also has some interesting wines especially if you like some older vintages.

Thanks to Clive for his excellent photos of the evening as usual.  Here are his photos of some of our tasters and their different pouring styles!
Keep smiling and we'll see you all again soon!

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