TonghamTaster’s French Wine Tasting Course – week 5 Bordeaux Sweet Whites

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INTRODUCTION
Nearly 90% of wine produced in Bordeaux is red but the region is also very well known for its sweet wine wines, especially Sauternes.

LOCALITY
Most of Bordeaux’s better sweet white wine is produced on the left bank below Bordeaux near the Graves region. The best are produced in the undulating hills close to where the cooler Ciron river merges with the warmer Garonne. This terroir produces the early morning mists that leads to the noble rot. Other sweet wines are produced in the Entre-Deux-Mers region we discovered last week but with different AOCs on the label which we will discuss below.

Chateau d'Yquem in Sauternes

VARIETALS
The main white grapes grown in Bordeaux for sweet wines in order of preference are the Semillon, Sauvignon Blanc and Muscadelle grape varieties. The Semillon grape is particularly valued because of its thin skin that makes it susceptible to noble rot or botrytis. Noble rot is a mould that shrivels the grape up until it is almost raisin like and leaves the grape juice as a very concentrated liquid.

THE WINES

Bottles of Sauternes and Cadillac

The two most famous Bordeaux AOCs for sweet wines are Sauternes and Barsac. These were classified back in 1855 and the top wine was Chateau d’Yquem and others were given the right to put Grand Cru Classé on the label. I remember asking my mum back in 1976 what her favourite wine was, as I thought I might buy her a bottle for Christmas. Unfortunately, having worked in the wine trade, she replied Chateau D’Yquem and at that time the £16 price per half bottle was completely out of my price range. It would seem quite a bargain now but the price of good sweet wines can still be off putting. However, there are less expensive and but still potentially good, sweet AOCs on the left bank such as Cerons and Loupiac.

In the Entre-Deux-Mers region just on the other side of the Garonne river from Barsac and Sauternes you get the sweet appellations Cadillac, St Croix du Mont. and Premières Côtes de Bordeaux. These can be well priced and thus variable but in a good year or from a good producer are well worth trying.

The better wines will improve with age and after 10 to 15 years will be at their peak.

THE TASTE
The taste of sweet white Bordeaux can vary in terms of use of oak, the richness and proportion of the different grape varieties. The weather also makes a difference as a successful end product depends on the early morning mists to cause the noble rot and sunny afternoons to ripen the grapes. A really good wine will demonstrate a rich, perhaps honeyish sweetness but cut through with an amazing acidity to create the balance any good wine requires. Many people think they don’t like sweet wine but when they try a good Sauternes or Barsac they are thrilled by the acidic balance. It is no surprise that many of my wine friends actually profess to liking Sauternes more than any other wine.

TOP TIPS
• A darker more golden colour can often distinguish a better sweet Bordeaux wine. Remember, sweet Bordeaux are sold in clear not green bottles so that you can really see the colour before you buy.
• Don’t just drink sweet Bordeaux with pudding or other deserts. They go equally well with many savoury food pairings.

HOMEWORK
For your homework this week you need to buy and try any sweet white Bordeaux which might include one of my recommendations below. Most of these wines are sold in half bottles and this is often sufficient. Do try with different foods to really get excited about the food pairing possibilities.

Waitrose – Waitrose in partnership by Chateau Suduiraut 2006 –Sauternes – about £14 a half bottle
or, Tesco – Tesco’s finest Sauternes 2004/5 – about £13 a half bottle.
or if feeling flush, Oddbins – Chateau Filhot 1999 Sauternes – about £19 a half bottle.
or, if on a budget, Sainsbury’s – Premières Côtes de Bordeaux – about £4 a half bottle.
or, if on a budget and you want a whole bottle, Tesco - Premières Côtes de Bordeaux - about £7.

FOOD PAIRINGS

Tandoori chicken makes an unusual but effective pairing

Starters –The classic starter pairing for Sauternes or similar wines is Foie Gras. The sweetness goes rather well and is the liquid equivalent of a sweet chutney. However, if you don’t like Foie Gras or want to be more adventurous why not try with a spicy Tempura starter or even tandoori chicken. A sweet Bordeaux can be an amazing wine pairing for lightly spiced food as it gives you an incredible afterburn across your palate that is really unusual. Crab and other seafood can also work well.  For more information about the tempura pairing click on this link Tempura, Tempura!

Main Courses – The classic main course pairing for Sweet Bordeaux is duck a l’orange. The orange flavour makes it a great pairing and the acidity of a Sauternes can cut through the fatness of the duck. This is another you must-try. Duck breast with orange sauce is really easy to cook if you follow the recipe that accompanies this blog. If this isn’t your cup of tea then try with some lightly spiced Indian food – Tandoori or Tikka chicken both work well.

Cheese – One of the best pairings for Sauternes is Roquefort Cheese. You might also want to experiment with other favourite blue cheeses or even hard mature cheeses. Experiment – it's fun.

Desserts – Most desserts other than chocolate work with Sauternes. If you are a chocoholic then try a white chocolate and orange dessert, perhaps served with Langue de Chat biscuits. Probably the classics are Crème Brulee or fruit tarts or orange pudding. However, why not try with cheesecake or a baked apple with cinnamon.

COMING SOON
Next week we continue our wine tour of France by visiting the Loire Valley. Whereas Bordeaux wines are dominated by blends, most Loire wines are single grape varietals…….
If you missed the early weeks of this course, it is not too late to catch up - just click on the link below:
Week One – Bordeaux Basics
Week Two – Right Bank Bordeaux Reds
Week Three – Left Bank Bordeaux Reds
Week Four – Dry White Bordeaux